Good evening, I recently had a Buderus G installed with a Logamatic control that monitors the boiler and the DHW unit. I don’t. Manuals and User Guides for Buderus Logamatic We have 4 Buderus Logamatic manuals available for free PDF download: Applications Manual, . View and Download Buderus Logamatic applications manual online. Modular control system for floor standing boilers with indoor reset, outdoor reset, .

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Results 1 to 7 of 7. Proper and efficient configuration of the Logamatic Thread Tools Show Printable Version. Proper and efficient configuration of the Logamatic Good evening, I recently had a Buderus G installed with a Logamatix control that monitors the boiler and the DHW unit.

I don’t currently have a Buderus room loogamatic sensor, though the thought had crossed my mind to include one in the future. The temperature is degrees outside here in CT and I’m finding that the boiler is running frequently, and I suspect it has to do with the current configuration for the heating curve.


Right now the reference temperature is set at degrees with an offset of The day temp is set at lotamatic on the control and night at logamatuc I have the thermostats set 21077 74 so the circulation is constant, and the living room zone which is right above the boiler room gets up to The furthest zone thermostat reads 63, but I question the accuracy of that, as it doesn’t feel like that much of a difference in temperature when I walk over there.

I might have to get a thermometer and get another reading from something else. It would make sense that it would be at least a little cooler though since it’s furthest out in the loop and the space under that is the unfinished portion that can get quite cold.

My system has four zones operated by zone valves. So, that’s some background information on my setup. I have some particular questions about the setup of the Logamatic: The first question, and one that seems to be impossible to find any information on, logamattic how curves are calculated at such-and-such temperature in order to determine the right setting for the reference design temperature and max temperature.

The manual basically says how to change the setting, but it doesn’t really explain how they arrive at those numbers. Can you explain this to me so I can best determine what to set the reference temp to?

Also, is there a correlation between the reference design temperature and how frequently the boiler comes on? It seems to come on for minutes every minutes lately, logging as much as hours in a hour period, according to the burner time log in the Logamatic.


That seems excessive, even for cold days like these, no? What would be more of an ideal, hours of burner time in a hour period? However this thing is currently set up, I get the impression it’s not as efficient as it is supposed to be, so if you could provide some information and insight as to what it’s trying to do and how these settings affect its response, that would be great.

And particularly, what formula if any I use to arrive at the proper reference temperatures. I have come across some posts on this site listing such-and-such temperatures and such-and-such outside temperatures, but I don’t see how those numbers are calculated anywhere.

I hope this wasn’t too much in one post! It also involves the heat loss of the house logamatiic. It’s a simple mathematical “curve” that adjusts the supply water to match the load at logamztic given outdoor temp. It’s nothing peculiar to the If your boiler is only running hours per day in this cold, it’s grossly over-sized.

It should run continuously when you reach design temp. Originally Posted by bobboan. Unfortunately, you cannot down fire a Buderus oil boiler. You could add a buffer tank to get some mass into the system which would prevent short cycling. Zoning compounds the problem because it throws fractional loads upon a boiler which is already over-sized for the total load of the entire house.

As far as the reset curve goes: That’s what’s needed to program the curve correctly. Regarding the load on the boiler, I have all the zones open at all times continuously and am letting the Logamatic work the supply heat calculations to keep the house at the temperature set on the control and to manage setback. The thermostats are set higher than the heat reaches so logamaticc zone valves remain open, so the boiler is in essence heating the entire available load all the time.

21007 sure if that’s helpful for efficiency or not, logamatoc if it matters in figuring the information I’m looking to calculate in my previous post, but I thought I’d mention it just in case. Anyone out there want to help me out?

I still need answers to these questions. General Discussion Pro’s Forum: Oil Burners Pro’s Forum: Building Science Discussions Pro’s Forum: Training and Education Pro’s Forum: Valves, Regulators, Filters, Etc. Power Quality Pro’s Forum: Getting Pumped for ! The Thrill of Exceeding Expectations. Building Success with Routines lohamatic Rituals. Subscribe to this feed. Related Forums The place where Electrical professionals meet.

Then One Foggy Service Call All times are GMT The time now is HVAC-Talk is proudly provided by: Results 1 to 7 of 7 Thread: Well that kind of stinks. One would like to think that people know what they’re logamaic when they come out and perform their services in recommending a product I guess I “lucked out” not and got the non-ideal recommendation. Llgamatic there something I can do to compensate for the oversizing? I’m still a little fuzzy on the reference temp curve.


Buderus Logamatic 2107 Applications Manual

I mean, I know what it is and what it’s supposed to do, but what is the mathematics behind the curve to figure it out? What would I need to do to find the ideal parameters? I guess in my mind I’m thinking there’s some sort of formula in which I plug in certain values for certain variables and end up with the right numbers for the Logamatic.

Ok, so I filled out this heat loss form to the best of my ability. Being an older house with an addition that was added who knows when, I gave my best guess and estimation in the amount of wall insulation and door R values etc, so I take the data with a grain of salt: I’m attaching a filled-out version of the form.

As an aside, besides doing all the heat loss math, is it possible just to cross-check it empirically by taking a degree day and putting it into night mode from a fully-heated to degree day mode and seeing how long it takes to drop x degrees? Or would that not provide useful information?

The design temp for the area is on that form too. The lowest temperature in this logamaticc of Connecticut can be anywhere from -2F rather extreme to 10F, based on weather history in the past 10 years or so, so I figured 0F is a reasonable design temperature.

My house’s heat is distributed entirely by hot-water baseboard heaters, and the total length of baseboards measured from all of the heated areas is For what it’s worth, I currently have night mode set to 60F and day mode set to 65F, offset It was at 62F and 67F respectively for some time but I dialed it back within the past few days or so. I may consider pumping it up a little again once I understand the method for calculating the reference design temperature and its effects. Given this information, please walk me through the steps for figuring out how to find the reference design temperature and plot the curve for the Logamatic so that I know not only the solution but the methodology and math behind calculating it.

The more specific, the better. I’m somewhat fascinated by this and would like to develop a thorough working knowledge of how this stuff works. Thanks, and let me know if anything else is needed!