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As a turntable they are bullet proof mechanically and I’m quite happy to take one apart to show how they function and how they can be modified to look a little less European and take different track formats. If there’s an interest, please let me know. I’m quite willing to cover most of the bases, but don’t want to waste time writing something if it’s not of interest to RMweb members.
It will take a few days to write something and take the various pics. Hopefully it will give you an idea how these things function mechanically and how they are connected up.
Well that’s saved me some time. Didn’t realise Melmerby had done it already The second version looks brilliant. Are those Dapol Girders? I guess you have to trim the deck where the hut was located was this difficult?
As a turntable they are bullet proof mechanically and I’m quite happy to take one apart to show how they function and how they can be modified to look a little less European and take different track formats It was a long time ago, but I’m certain they were from the Dapol C turntable kit. Cutting the deck straight took a lot of balls, but it was far easier than I feared.
Fleischmann 6052-LN Electrically Operated Turntable – Pre-owned – Like new
I did it with an Exacto razor saw and cut off the ‘greenhouse’ one end and the ‘access platform’ the other end. Once you have a straight deck, you can then fit whichever sides you require. There are three types. I’ll call them type 1, 2, 3 for ease of description only. Those types numbers don’t exist outside my world These are the plain inserts and are like gold dust.
If ever you want to reduce the number of tracks downwards, you will need these Type 1 parts to restore the outer ring, so whatever happens treat them carefully or f,eischmann will just fleiachmann to have Type 2 or 3 making up the ring with no track connection. This is an access track and comes complete 0652 a short piece of Fleischmann track to suit their systems.
I’ll show you how to change this to suit other 00 track systems.
Fleischmann – TURNTABLE EL.
The rail fleischjann the deck is welded to wiper pick up springs under the turntable deck. I got even braver with the handrail version and changed the rail to Code 75 bullhead and resoldered the pickup wiper springs.
Would I do that again? The Code FB rail is heavy, but careful alignment and some paint could disguise that.
To fit other manufacturer’s track, you will need Type 2 or 3, but 3’s are cheaper so preferred. Pull off the existing rail carefully and if necessary provide a small packing strip to bring the rail up level. I hate to say no, but not a job I would like to do. The deck rail is the toughest part.
The dimension between the two decking sides is circa 21mm, so yes there is room, but I’m not sure how you could fix the rail in place.
Epoxy might do it, but then you have the problem of the wiper pickups welded to the rail.
These are aligned to concentric rings under the deck to provide power to the rails. Taking the gauge out from To fleisvhmann honest if you had chosen P4 standards, you would probably build a finescale turntable yourself. The Fleischmann one works and works well. It’s really strong and virtually bullet proof in it’s alignment.
It’s up there with the best in terms of reliability and is hard not to recommend for those of us meddling in 00 and without Pendon level engineering skills. Posted 05 January – Sorry Peter, I can’t help you there as it was years ago and I didn’t take fleiscgmann photographs at the time. What I will say though, is that it must have been pretty straightforward or I would have remembered any fleischamnn.
It was just a case of removing the deck, marking and cutting.
There was no filling involved, just a straight cut on both sides with a sharp razor saw. I certainly recall being nervous at the time of wrecking an expensive turntable, but having looked at it closely before I did the cut, I don’t really recall any problems. If you are considering doing it yourself, then just check everything and take it slowly and carefully.
I’ll take a deck off tomorrow and compare it to Melmerby’s shots. I’ve repeated them here. Looking at these I would have a question about the roller wheel in both cut areas, so it will be interesting to compare the before and after to see where I cut it.
I hope you don’t mind me repeating your shots. I just thought it was easier than a link. If you’re unhappy about it, just let me know and I’ll change it to a link. Taken one of mine apart this morning. This one is the which is the earlier model, but in essence they are similar.
Consignment – Fleischmann Turntable
The is probably more suited to DC as it requires a toggle switch to switch the polarity on the deck itself. The deck is continually live, so you drive onto the deck and through with everything at the same polarity. Of course should you then reverse onto the deck and do a degree turn the deck polarity is then wrong to the exit track, hence the CO switch to bring it back in line.
I played around with mine and modified it in line with Peco i. That does away with the switch. That was fine pre DCC, but I’m guessing the track break would be an issue for sound locos.
The deck requires two straight cuts as shown in purple.
You will see this effectively removes one wheel each end from the outer ring. Mine have been fine running without that wheel, but if you wanted real belt and braces stuff, then I would cut the base of the wheel with a razor saw and stick it back in the position shown with a red star.
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An early one with a modified deck, brass handrails and Code 75 rail. Edited by gordon s, 04 January – Click on pic to enlarge it.
Edited by gordon s, 05 January – Nice and easy so I will tackle it tomorrow morning. I tested it without adding the the 2 rollers back on and there was no noticable difference in performance so I have left them off.
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